Welcome to the second lowdown from WEFT. In this series of blogs we aim to give a rapid read out of key research and policy developments around tEPR along with actionable next steps.
We have done deep-dives and asked the difficult questions so brands, retailers, platforms, distributors and all producers can get to grips with tEPR.
The LOWDOWN
The EPR Sandbox was launched in an industry-backed White Paper we published at the end of last year, discussing that the UK should introduce variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fees for clothing and textiles now, so brands that design for circularity pay less, and those that don’t pay more.
The paper is rooted in real product data (500k+ different garment types) and has cross-industry support from UKFT, BFC, BRC and leading brands.
With the Government’s Circularity Task Force about to report back with its recommendations for actions on textiles, this is a timely reminder of what the fashion and textiles industry and the bodies who represent them have been calling for.
What is this all about?
The EPR Sandbox is a collaborative project led by WEFT with support from UKFT, the British Fashion Council, the British Retail Consortium, and multiple brands and retailers. It lays out how variable EPR fees could work fairly and practically for UK fashion and textiles—funding reuse, repair and recycling while nudging design towards durability and circularity.
Why now?
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Fashion is a heavyweight: ~£62bn to the UK economy, but also heavy on impacts, with hundreds of thousands of tonnes of clothing heading to landfill each year. We need a system that tackles end-of-life responsibly and rewards better design upstream.
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Flat fees risk blunt outcomes; variable, impact-based or “eco-modulated” fees create a level playing field and real incentives to design for long life, repairability and recyclability.
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Reporting: We anticipate a green paper from the Government, led by Defra’s Circular Economy Taskforce, this paper is a review of a circular economy in England and will give insights into policymakers’ ambition on EPR for textiles.
What did the Sandbox actually do?
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Crunched serious data: connected large volumes of product, sales and weight data—covering 500,000+ garment types and hundreds of millions of items—and still delivered accurate results on 85%+ of the dataset, even when inputs were incomplete.
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Tested fee structures: per-item, per-kg and circular-attribute-based models to see which best incentivise better design without over-burdening producers.
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Mapped the money: showed how scaling variable fees can create a central fund to invest in repair, reuse and recycling—and reduce costs for producers who do the right thing.
Who was involved?
UKFT , BFC, BRC, Burberry, Marks & Spencer, New Look, John Smedley, a global sportswear brand and a major resale platform—plus UKRI support. Leaders across the sector echo the same message as a result of our successful work: intelligent, eco-modulated EPR is feasible and needed.
“An intelligent EPR fee based on eco-modulation is possible—and could make a real difference.” — UKFT
“We fully support this work; our industry needs strong support from Government.” — BFC
“A successful scheme will encourage circular design and invest in UK recycling infrastructure.” — BRC
So… what would variable fees look like?
Think of it as pay-what-you-design:
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Lower fees for garments designed to last, be repaired, and be recycled.
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Higher fees for products that create end-of-life headaches.
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A central fund ring-fenced for UK circular infrastructure, skills and innovation: we’re not just paying for waste management; we’re building the solution for the future.
What WEFT thinks
This is a once-in-a-generation chance to align incentives with outcomes. As Kristina Bull puts it, the evidence is there, industry is ready, and variable EPR is essential if the UK is serious about dealing with fashion’s end-of-life impacts.
What needs to happen next?
Government action. Adopt a variable, eco-modulated textiles EPR scheme, with clear rules, robust data flows and a funding mechanism that accelerates repair, reuse and recycling across the UK. The groundwork’s done—now it’s about implementation.
We look forward to hearing the Taskforce recommendations before the end of the year.
How you can dial up your action
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Brands & retailers: stress-test your ranges against circular attributes now; the fee curve will reward you.
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Policy makers: use the White Paper’s tested models and stakeholder coalition to move from consultation to commitment.
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Recyclers & re-use operators: prepare to scale; the funding signal is designed to flow your way.
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Get in touch - we can offer a limited free sample data check
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One line that sums it up
If you design better products, you should pay less; the system should fund the circular economy activities we all need.